Yema Superman (1963 Original French Dive Watch)
When collectors discuss the great dive watches of the 1960s, the conversation usually centers on the Rolex Submariner, the Omega Seamaster, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. But there is a French contender that deserves a place at that table: the Yema Superman. First released in 1963, the Superman introduced a patented bezel-locking mechanism that no other manufacturer offered, delivered genuine professional-grade water resistance, and did it all with a distinctly Gallic sense of style. Today, original 1960s Supermans are increasingly sought after by collectors who appreciate both the watch's technical innovation and its underdog charm.
Yema: A French Watchmaking Story
Yema (pronounced "yeh-mah") was founded in 1948 by Henry-Louis Belmont in Besancon, the traditional heart of French watchmaking. From the beginning, Belmont positioned the company as a maker of serious tool watches for professionals, not fashion accessories for the boulevard set.
The company quickly earned credibility through real-world use. Yema watches accompanied French military personnel, explorers, and scientists in demanding environments. The brand's commitment to functional performance over marketing flash set it apart from many French consumer watch brands of the era.
Besancon was, and remains, the center of French horology. The city sits just 60 kilometers from the Swiss border and has a watchmaking tradition stretching back centuries. Yema drew on this regional expertise to produce watches that could compete with their Swiss neighbors on quality, if not always on brand recognition.
The Superman's Debut: 1963
The original Superman launched in 1963 as a purpose-built dive watch. It was designed to meet the needs of professional and recreational divers, with a depth rating of 300 meters (990 feet), a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking elapsed bottom time, and a screw-down crown for water resistance.
But the feature that truly set the Superman apart was its patented bezel-locking mechanism, positioned at 3 o'clock on the case. This small button or crown allowed the diver to lock the bezel in position after setting it, preventing accidental rotation during a dive. In an era before dive computers, when your bezel setting might be the only thing keeping you from running out of air, this was a genuinely meaningful safety feature.
No other major manufacturer offered a bezel lock at the time. Rolex, Omega, and Blancpain all relied on friction alone to keep their bezels in place. Yema's locking system was a genuine innovation, and the company patented it. The bezel lock became the Superman's signature feature and has been carried forward on every generation of the watch.
Design and Construction
The original 1960s Superman had a clean, purposeful design that reflected its tool-watch mission:
Case
The case was stainless steel, approximately 37-39mm in diameter (depending on the specific variant), with a brushed finish on the sides and a polished bezel. The case back was screw-down, and the crown was also screw-down for water resistance. The overall case shape was round with relatively short lugs, giving the watch a compact wrist presence.
Dial
Early Superman dials are beautifully simple. Black matte backgrounds with applied luminous hour markers (typically round dots at most positions, with a triangle at 12 o'clock) and luminous hands. The dial text is minimal: "YEMA" and "Superman" with a depth rating. Some variants include a date window at 3 o'clock.
The lume on original dials is tritium, which has typically aged to a warm cream or tan color over the decades. Consistent lume patina across the dial and hands is a strong indicator of originality.
Bezel
The unidirectional rotating bezel features a 60-minute dive scale with a luminous marker at the zero position. The bezel insert on early models is aluminum, which develops attractive wear patterns over time. The bezel clicks through 120 positions (one click per 30 seconds of elapsed time).
Movement
Early Supermans used various movements depending on the specific model and era. Many 1960s examples are powered by hand-wound or automatic calibers sourced from established movement manufacturers. The specific movement varies by reference, but Yema consistently chose reliable, serviceable calibers appropriate for a professional tool watch.
What Makes the Original Superman Collectible
Several factors drive collector interest in the 1960s Superman:
The Patented Bezel Lock
This unique feature gives the Superman a genuine differentiator in a crowded field of vintage dive watches. Collectors appreciate innovation, and the bezel lock was genuinely novel.
French Heritage
As collectors look beyond the Swiss giants for interesting vintage pieces, French watchmaking has attracted growing attention. The Superman is the flagship French dive watch, and owning one is a way to represent an often-overlooked watchmaking tradition.
Relative Affordability
Compared to a vintage Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster 300 from the same era (which can cost $10,000 to $50,000 or more), original Yema Supermans remain comparatively accessible. This value proposition makes them attractive to collectors who want a genuine 1960s dive watch without the astronomical prices.
Growing Brand Awareness
Yema has undergone a revival in recent years, releasing modern Heritage editions of the Superman that have introduced the brand to a new generation of collectors. This increased awareness has driven interest in the original vintage models.
Authentication
As values for vintage Supermans have increased, so has the need for careful authentication:
Dial Originality
Original dials should show consistent aging, with tritium lume that has developed a natural patina. Refinished dials are common, as many of these watches were serviced by local watchmakers who thought nothing of repainting a dial. A refinished dial significantly reduces collector value.
Look for:
Consistent lume color between hands and dial markers
No signs of repainting (check edges of text under magnification)
Appropriate dial text for the era (font, layout, depth rating)
Case Authenticity
The case should show signs of honest wear consistent with age. Check for:
Original bezel-lock mechanism at 3 o'clock
Correct crown (signed Yema)
Appropriate case back markings
No case stretching or damage from improper opening
Movement
Verify that the movement is correct for the specific model and era. A watchmaker familiar with vintage French watches can confirm this. The movement should be clean, functional, and free of non-original parts.
Bezel Insert
Original aluminum bezel inserts show characteristic wear: fading of the numerals, surface scratches, and a general softening of the markings. A pristine bezel insert on an otherwise worn watch is suspicious and may indicate a replacement.
Condition Grades and Values
| Condition | Description | Approximate Value |
|---|---|---|
| Exceptional | All original, excellent dial, minimal wear | $3,000 - $6,000 |
| Good | Original dial, honest wear, everything functions | $1,500 - $3,000 |
| Fair | Refinished dial or replaced bezel insert, functional | $800 - $1,500 |
| Project | Non-running, significant issues, or heavily modified | $300 - $800 |
Specific variants, particularly early production models with rare dial configurations, can command premiums above these ranges. Models with documented provenance (especially military or professional diving use) are also more valuable.
For comparison, the modern Yema Superman Heritage retails for approximately $990-$1,150 new, which provides context for vintage pricing. A well-preserved original from the 1960s at $3,000-$5,000 represents real value when you consider its age, rarity, and historical significance.
The Superman Through the Decades
The Superman has been produced in various forms since 1963, evolving with the times while maintaining its core identity:
1960s-1970s: The Golden Era
The original hand-wound and early automatic models from this period are the most collectible. Clean designs, quality construction, and the novelty of the bezel lock define this era.
1970s-1980s: The Quartz Years
Like virtually every watch brand, Yema pivoted to quartz during this period. Quartz Supermans are less collectible but still functional dive watches.
1990s-2000s: The Quiet Years
Yema went through ownership changes and reduced its profile. Supermans from this era are generally less interesting to collectors.
2010s-Present: The Revival
Under new ownership, Yema has revived the Superman line with Heritage models that faithfully recreate the original 1960s design using modern manufacturing. These watches have been well-received by both the press and collectors, and they have driven renewed interest in the vintage originals.
What to Look for When Buying
Prioritize dial originality. An original, unrestored dial in honest condition is far more valuable than a refinished dial in cosmetically perfect condition. Vintage watch collecting rewards patina and originality.
Check the bezel lock. The bezel-locking mechanism at 3 o'clock should function properly. A stuck or broken bezel lock is repairable but adds cost and complication.
Verify water resistance claims skeptically. A 60-year-old dive watch should not be assumed to be water resistant, regardless of its original specifications. Have gaskets and seals replaced before any water exposure.
Buy from specialists. Dealers who specialize in vintage dive watches or French watches will have the knowledge to authenticate and properly describe a Superman. General vintage watch sellers may not know what to look for.
Join the community. Yema collectors are active on watch forums and social media. The Yema Owners Club and various Facebook groups can provide guidance, second opinions on potential purchases, and access to knowledgeable enthusiasts.
Consider the modern alternative. If you love the Superman design but cannot find or afford a good vintage example, the modern Heritage models offer the same aesthetic and bezel lock in a brand-new, fully warrantied package. You can always add a vintage piece later.
Think long-term. The market for vintage Yema Supermans has been trending upward as collectors discover the brand. While no one can predict future values, the combination of genuine innovation, French heritage, and relative scarcity suggests that good examples will continue to appreciate.
The Yema Superman is a watch with a story worth telling. It represents a uniquely French approach to tool-watch design, with a genuine innovation in the bezel lock and a heritage that stretches back to the golden age of dive watches. For collectors who appreciate underdogs with substance, the Superman is a compelling find.
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